What Is Kundan Jewellery? A Beginner’s Guide ✨
Kundan jewellery is one of India’s most iconic and time-honoured jewellery traditions. Known for its glowing brilliance and intricate craftsmanship, it has graced royal courts, weddings, and celebrations for centuries. Even today, it continues to inspire brides, collectors, and lovers of heritage design worldwide.
This guide covers everything you need to know about Kundan jewellery: its origins, how it is made, what makes it different from other styles, and how you can wear it for modern occasions.
Origins of Kundan Jewellery
The history of Kundan jewellery stretches back several centuries, with its artistic roots in Rajasthan and flourishing under the patronage of the Mughal Empire. Royal families and courtiers prized Kundan pieces not only for their brilliance but also for their cultural symbolism.
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The word “Kundan” itself refers to highly refined gold used in the making process.
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Over time, the style became associated with ceremonial grandeur, especially in royal weddings and festive occasions.
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Regional schools in Jaipur and Bikaner perfected the craft, passing it down from master jeweller to apprentice across generations.
Because of its association with luxury, heritage, and artistry, Kundan has never gone out of fashion. Instead, it continues to adapt to new contexts while retaining its regal essence.
Craftsmanship: How Kundan Jewellery Is Made
Kundan jewellery is admired not only for its appearance but also for the extraordinary skill that goes into making it. The process is labour-intensive and highly detailed, often requiring weeks of handwork for a single set.
The Process
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Base and Core: A structural base is created, often using lac (a natural resin).
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Setting Stones: Gemstones such as emeralds, rubies, sapphires, or diamonds are carefully placed into cavities. In some cases, glass stones are used as more affordable substitutes.
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Foil Application: Thin sheets of pure or refined gold foil (kundan) are pressed around the stones to secure them in place without prongs. This creates the distinctive glowing edge.
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Detailing: Artisans carve motifs, polish surfaces, and balance proportions so that every stone reflects light.
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Meenakari Enamel: On the reverse, many pieces feature meenakari, a traditional enamel technique that adds colourful floral or geometric patterns.
Motifs and Design Language
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Floral: Lotus, roses, and vines.
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Paisley: A recurring Indian motif symbolising fertility and life.
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Peacocks: Representing grace, beauty, and nobility.
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Geometric patterns: Used in more contemporary adaptations.
The dual artistry—precious stonework on the front and enamel on the back—makes Kundan jewellery a true miniature masterpiece.
Why Kundan Jewellery Endures
Despite evolving fashion, Kundan remains a cornerstone of Indian jewellery for three key reasons:
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Timeless Beauty
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The glow of polished stones framed in gold foil creates an aura that is instantly recognisable.
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Unlike pronged settings, the foil enhances brilliance evenly, giving a soft, mirror-like radiance.
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Versatility
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Works equally well in bridal trousseaus, festive wear, and contemporary outfits.
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Can be designed in both heavy ceremonial sets and lighter, everyday adornments.
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Cultural Heritage
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Wearing Kundan is not just about fashion—it’s about connecting to centuries of Indian artistry and storytelling.
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Each piece feels like a bridge between past and present.
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Types of Kundan Jewellery
Kundan comes in many forms, ranging from full bridal sets to subtle accents. Some of the most popular include:
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Chokers: Wide, collar-like necklaces often paired with matching earrings.
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Rani Haars: Long layered necklaces that cascade gracefully.
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Maang Tikkas: Forehead ornaments completing the bridal look.
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Bangles and Kadas: Intricately detailed wristwear.
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Naths: Traditional nose rings, sometimes set with Kundan stones.
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Hathphool: Hand ornaments combining rings and chains.
Styling Kundan Jewellery
Kundan is adaptable—it can be styled both traditionally and in modern, experimental ways.
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Bridal Looks 👰
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Layer a heavy choker with a rani haar for maximum drama.
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Match with maang tikka, earrings, and bangles for a full bridal effect.
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Festive Celebrations 🎉
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Choose a medium-weight necklace with jhumkas to stay elegant yet comfortable.
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Pair with sarees, lehengas, or anarkalis in jewel tones for maximum effect.
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Modern Fusion 🌸
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A single Kundan pendant over a plain blouse, gown, or even a crisp shirt creates a chic Indo-Western twist.
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Pair small Kundan studs with contemporary dresses for subtle sparkle.
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💡 Pro Tip: Always let one statement piece shine. Wearing multiple heavy elements together can overpower your outfit.
Authenticity and Variations
It’s important to distinguish between authentic Kundan jewellery and modern adaptations.
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Authentic Kundan is made with pure gold foil and precious stones.
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Contemporary Kundan often uses silver or mixed metals with gold plating, sometimes substituting glass for gemstones—making it more affordable but visually similar.
Both versions are widely worn, but understanding the difference ensures you know what you’re investing in.
Kundan vs Other Jewellery Traditions
Kundan is often compared with Polki and Jadau, but they are not identical.
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Polki uses uncut natural diamonds, whereas Kundan can use gemstones or glass.
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Jadau refers to a broader technique of embedding stones into gold, under which Kundan and Polki both fall.
This distinction makes Kundan accessible across a wide range of budgets, while still retaining cultural prestige.
Why Choose Kundan Today?
Kundan remains a favourite because it offers:
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Affordability + Luxury: Accessible variations exist, but authentic Kundan also carries investment value.
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Cultural Continuity: Wearing Kundan honours centuries of Indian craftsmanship.
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Statement Appeal: Instantly elevates bridal and festive looks.
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Collectible Quality: Many pieces are heirlooms, passed down across generations.
Conclusion
Kundan jewellery is not just ornamentation—it is heritage you can wear. From the Mughal courts of Rajasthan to modern bridal stages across the world, it has carried forward a legacy of brilliance, detail, and artistry.
For beginners, understanding its origins, craftsmanship, and styling possibilities unlocks a deeper appreciation of why Kundan has remained timeless. Whether you choose it for a wedding, a festive gathering, or as part of a personal collection, Kundan jewellery ensures you carry centuries of Indian culture with every piece.
