Complete Guide to Kundan Jewellery: Every Ornament You Should Know

Kundan jewellery is one of the most enduring traditions of Indian ornamentation. Known for its glowing, mirror-like settings and intricate handwork, Kundan evolved over centuries in the royal ateliers of North India—especially in Rajasthan—reaching artistic heights under Mughal patronage. At its core, the craft secures stones by pressing ultra-thin, high-purity kundan (gold foil) around each stone within a cavity, often built over a supportive lac (natural resin) core. The reverse of many pieces is adorned with meenakari (enamel), making Kundan beautiful front and back.

Because Kundan is a setting technique rather than a single product, it spans a wide spectrum of ornaments for head, face, neck, arms, waist, and even the groom’s attire. This guide is a comprehensive catalogue of those ornaments—what they are, how they’re typically designed in Kundan, and how to style them with confidence.

How Kundan Is Made (Brief Overview)

Structure: A metal framework is prepared and cavities are formed; a lac core often supports the structure.
Stone setting: Gemstones (emerald, ruby, sapphire, pearls, etc.) are placed in the cavities. Contemporary pieces may use glass stones as substitutions, but authentic heritage work uses gems.
Foil application: Highly refined gold foil (kundan) is pressed around each stone edge to secure it and create the signature glow—no prong claws.
Back finishing: Many pieces feature meenakari enamel on the reverse, turning the back into a miniature painting.

Note: “Kundan” refers specifically to the refined gold foil setting. “Jadau” is a broader term for stone-inlay techniques in gold; Kundan is one form within that broader tradition.

Head Ornaments (Sheesh Shringar)

Maang Tikka

A central forehead ornament that sits along the parting of the hair and rests at the hairline. In Kundan, the pendant element is typically round or crescent with a halo of foil-set stones and a pearl or bead drop.

Why Kundan works: The foil rim creates a soft, even glow in photographs.
Style tip: Choose size by face length—smaller discs for petite faces; larger or layered motifs for broader foreheads.

Matha Patti

An extended version of the maang tikka with side chains that frame the hairline. Kundan matha pattis can be delicate with small rosettes or grand with linked floral panels.

Best with: Center-parted buns or braids; complements heavy chokers by distributing visual weight upward.

Sheeshphool (Sheeshphool / Sheeshphool Band)

A crown-like headpiece that sits across the front hairline or around the bun, richly decorated with Kundan floral units.

Look: Creates a halo effect; ideal for heritage photography.
Fit: Secure with discreet pins; keep hairstyle sleek to avoid shifting.

Passa / Jhoomar

A side-forehead ornament worn to one side, especially in North Indian and Pakistani bridal looks. Kundan versions feature tiered panels and pearl tassels.

Balance: If you wear a passa, keep the maang tikka modest—or skip it—for symmetry.

Hair Braid Ornaments (Jada/Jadai Billai)

Decorative elements placed along a long braid or bun wrap. Kundan segments can be modular disks or a continuous vine.

Tip: Use lighter segments to keep the braid comfortable during long ceremonies.

Face & Ear Ornaments

Nath (Nose Ring)

From dainty hoops to large circular naths with a hair chain, Kundan-set stones give a soft sheen without the sparkle of faceted diamonds.

Fit: Clip-on options exist for non-pierced wearers; ensure the chain length matches your face proportion.

Earrings

Jhumka: Bell-shaped drops with Kundan caps and pearl fringes; classic bridal choice.
Chandbali: Crescent (“moon”) silhouettes with layered Kundan panels; frames the jawline beautifully.
Studs/Buttons: Disc or floral studs for pre-wedding functions or minimal looks.

Tip: If you wear both a heavy choker and a rani haar, choose mid-weight earrings to avoid crowding the neckline.

Neck & Chest Ornaments

Choker (Guluband/Neck Collar)

The signature statement piece in many Kundan sets. Broad plates or linked panels sit snug at the base of the neck, often finished with pearl or bead hangings.

Pairing: Layer with a long necklace (rani haar or satlada) for ceremonial grandeur.

Rani Haar

Long, queenly strands or panelled motifs extending below the bust. Kundan rani haars can range from single long panels to multi-tiered constructions.

Neckline: Best with deeper blouse necklines; photographically elongates the torso.

Satlada / Panchlada (Seven/Five-Layer Necklace)

Multiple cascading strands, often with small Kundan rosettes spaced along each string. A classic heirloom silhouette.

Balance: Keep earrings simple to let the layering read cleanly.

Haaram / Long Mala

Temple-inspired long necklaces adapted in Kundan with medallions and enamelled backs; bridges regional aesthetics with Mughal sensibilities.

Pendant Sets

A central Kundan pendant on a bead or pearl mala—lighter and versatile for pre-wedding events.

Arms, Hands & Wrist Ornaments

Bajuband / Armlet

Upper-arm ornament featuring floral Kundan panels or a central medallion with side chains.

Fit & comfort: Choose adjustable backs or cloth bases under the metal frame to prevent slipping.

Hathphool / Haath Panja

A hand harness linking a bracelet to one or more rings via Kundan-set chains or rosettes.

Use case: Perfect for mehendi photos; choose flexible chains if you’ll be greeting guests frequently.

Kadas, Bangles & Chura

From slim Kundan bangles to broad kadas, wrist ornaments punctuate the outfit with rhythm and light. Punjabi bridal chura can be flanked with Kundan kadas for a mixed traditional-regal look.

Stacking: Alternate plain bangles with Kundan units for breathability and movement.

Waist, Anklets & Additional Accents

Kamarband / Waist Belt

A waist adornment that cinches the silhouette and adds regality. Kundan kamarbandhs use linked plaques or flexible chains with floral units.

Fit: Ensure a comfortable drape over the lehenga waistband; avoid too-tight fits that ride up.

Payal (Anklets) & Toe Rings

While traditionally crafted in silver, anklets with Kundan-set plaques appear in bridal sets for coordinated looks. Toe rings may feature small Kundan elements for ceremonies.

Practicality: Keep anklet profiles low to prevent snagging on the hem.

Brooches, Dupatta Pins & Sari Clips

Small Kundan brooches secure pallu or dupatta drapes and add highlights to plain fabrics. Useful for reception outfit changes.

Groom’s Ornaments in Kundan

Kalgi / Sarpech (Turban Ornament)

A regal plume or crest worn on the groom’s turban. Kundan kalgis feature vertical leaf or feather silhouettes with enamelled backs, sometimes with a central gemstone and pearl hangings.

Coordinate: Match the metal tone and bead colours with the bride’s set for cohesive photos.

Brooches & Buttons

Kundan brooches for sherwanis and bejewelled button sets add subtle heritage cues without overwhelming the outfit.

Long Mala / Kanthi

Bead malas with Kundan pendants or spaced Kundan rosettes elevate the groom’s silhouette—especially in reception looks.

How to Build a Balanced Bridal (or Groom) Set

Pick a focal area: Neckline (choker + rani haar) or head (sheeshphool + matha patti + tikka). Avoid maxing both.
Scale smartly: If the necklace stack is heavy, keep earrings mid-weight; if earrings are dramatic (large chandbalis), choose a slimmer necklace.
Colour coordination: Let textile embroidery guide accent beads (pearls, green, red). Kundan’s foil glow is neutral—use bead strings to harmonise.
Comfort first: Try the full set together for at least 20–30 minutes before the event to check pinch points and weight distribution.

Authenticity, Materials & Care

Authentic Kundan: Uses refined gold foil and gemstones, with handmade nuances and meenakari backs on many pieces.
Contemporary adaptations: Silver or mixed alloys with plated finishes; glass stones may be used as substitutes to achieve the look at lower cost.
Care: Keep away from moisture and perfumes; store flat in padded boxes; avoid ultrasonic cleaners (they can loosen lac and enamel).
Repairs: Seek specialists experienced in foil setting and enamel restoration.

Quick Reference: Ornament Glossary

Maang Tikka: Center forehead pendant on a hairline chain.
Matha Patti: Tikka with side chains framing the hairline.
Sheeshphool: Crown-like head band or bun adornment.
Passa/Jhoomar: Side-forehead ornament.
Choker/Guluband: Short, collar-style necklace.
Rani Haar: Long, queenly necklace; often layered.
Satlada/Panchlada: Seven/five-strand necklaces.
Jhumka/Chandbali: Bell/crescent earrings.
Nath: Nose ring; sometimes with hair chain.
Bajuband: Upper armlet.
Hathphool: Hand harness linking bracelet and rings.
Kada/Bangle/Chura: Wrist adornments; chura is a Punjabi bridal set.
Kamarband: Waist belt.
Payal: Anklet.
Kalgi/Sarpech: Groom’s turban ornament.

FAQs (Focused on Accuracy)

Is Kundan a metal or a technique?
Kundan refers to the refined gold foil setting technique used to secure stones; it is not a separate metal.

Does all Kundan use gemstones?
Traditional work uses gemstones and pearls; contemporary pieces may use glass stones as visual substitutes.

Is Kundan the same as Polki?
No. Polki uses uncut natural diamonds; Kundan is the foil-setting technique often paired with gemstones and enamel backs.

Can Kundan be lightweight?
Yes. While ceremonial sets can be substantial, many modern designs are engineered for comfort with thinner frameworks.

How should Kundan be maintained?
Avoid moisture and solvents; wipe gently with a soft cloth; store flat to protect enamel and foil work.

Closing Note

Kundan is far more than a single necklace or earring style—it is a complete design language that spans the full bridal (and groom’s) wardrobe. Understanding each ornament and how it can be rendered in Kundan helps you build a look that is both culturally grounded and visually balanced. Use this guide as a reference when planning your trousseau or styling ceremonial outfits, and you’ll carry forward a tradition that has shone—literally and figuratively—for centuries.